PINEWOOD DERBY CAR SHOWCASE

Thrasher - Dave & DJ DeFelice


This is my son DJ's car. He is 7 years-old, and a Wolf in Pack 196 in Milford, Connecticut. I cut the shape out on my band saw, and helped him carve out the flame design with a Dremel tool. DJ sanded the car, and then I painted the burgundy and black and DJ painted the yellow flames. He then polished the axles and added the weights.

Yoshi - Jim Mason


My Bear Cub wanted something different this year, while still wanting to produce a fast car. He decided to use a Yoshi theme (the character from Nintendo's Super Mario Kart, a video game we've tackled together), but he said he still wanted his car to be different. After browsing the Internet, as I'm sure many dads do, I borrowed the cut hole design in the body and suggested we modify the design to make our holes to have an egg shape, because Yoshi throws eggs in the game.

We painted it green, pasted on some photos of Yoshi and were off to the races. We took first in the pack, setting a new track record, and took third overall in our district race. (The tungsten cylinders and axle polishing kit are a must have for any serious racers. Plus, the Pro-Axle Guide was a huge hit in my pack and with several leaders at the district race. I can't say enough about it other than it's another must have.

Blue Venom - Larry Cox


This is a Dad's car we built this year. We used a PineCar kit with your matched BSA wheels and axles. The paint is Dupicolor and we used the kit decals. It looks good, but I lost to my son in the open class!

From Pinewood Derby Times Volume 6, Issue 1

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Maximum Velocity Pinewood Derby Car Plans and Supplies

Five Keys to Performance

I can’t count how many times I have been asked, "How do I make my pinewood derby car go fast?" If you have been involved in pinewood derby racing for any time at all, or if you have been a subscriber to this newsletter, then you understand that there is no simple formula for success, and thus no simple answer to this question. But since I am asked the question, I provide five keys to unlock the performance of pinewood derby cars.


Key 1 - MAXIMIZE MOMENTUM
Maximum weight; Add weight towards the rear of the car

In an automobile, momentum helps the car keep rolling when you take your foot off the gas. In a similar way, momentum helps a pinewood derby car to continue rolling as fast as possible on the flat section of the track. Momentum must be maximized for top performance, and the key to momentum is weight. In each race, there is a maximum allowable weight for the car (usually five ounces, but certainly check your local rules). Momentum is maximized when your car has the maximum allowable weight for your race.

For a five ounce maximum weight, you will likely need to add two or three ounces of weight to the car. But where on the car do you add the weight? Add the weight towards the rear of the car.

Tests show that best performance is achieved on most tracks when the weight is added towards the rear of the car. This can be overdone, but a simple test to make sure the car is properly weighted is to balance the finished car on the edge of a ruler. The car should balance somewhere between 1 and 1-1/4 inches in front of the rear axle.

Does the type of weight matter? The maximum weight can be achieved with any type of weight; however, the type of weight does affect how easily the desired weight can be achieved. Denser weights (such as Lead or Tungsten) take up less space, so it is easier to reach the maximum weight. Also, since denser weights require a smaller volume of space, they allow creation of more aerodynamic cars (which is Key 2).

By the way, if you are in a BSA-sponsored race, ignore the picture on the front of the BSA kit. Use the slot closest to the end of the block as the rear axle.

Key 2 - AERODYNAMICS
Profile and body features minimized to improve air flow

If you asked me a year ago, "How do I make my pinewood derby car go fast?" I would not have included aerodynamics as a key. However, since that time I have read one study and performed another, both of which showed that the effect of aerodynamics on pinewood derby car performance is not trivial (see Volume 3, Issue 9 - "The Big Debates - Aerodynamics").

There are many elaborate ways to improve aerodynamics, but to simplify matters, let's use the following principles:

1. Low-profile cars (smaller surface area as viewed from the front of the car) will tend to outperform higher-profile cars.

2. Cars should taper from a smaller surface area in the front to a (possibly) larger surface area in the rear.

3. Edges running across the car should be rounded or tapered.

4. Wings, sails, flags, pennants, etc. add to the surface area, thus they tend to decrease performance.

5. Unfilled (major) holes can catch air and slow down a car.

To add some balance to this topic, Key 2 (aerodynamics) is not as important as the other four Keys, so I don't suggest that you sacrifice looks to achieve an aerodynamic shape. If your child wants to build a car that is not particularly aerodynamic, don't worry about it. Just make sure that the other four Keys are carefully followed.


Key 3 - WHEEL/AXLE PREPARATION
Axles - no flaws, straight, polished; Wheels - no flaws, polished

All of the frictional losses in a pinewood derby car come from the wheels and axles. Start by inspecting the parts in your kit to make sure they are usable. If a part has a serious flaw, replace it.

Next, prepare the nails.

1. Place the nail in the chuck of a drill and use a Mini-File to remove the flashing under the nail head and minimize the ridges on the shaft. Beveling the nail head slightly is also a good idea.

2. Optionally use the Pro-Axle Press to ensure that the nails are straight and round.

3. Finally, polish the axles with an Axle Polishing Kit until they are bright and shiny.

To prepare the wheels, use the Pro-Hub Tool to square the wheel hub. Then use a Pro-Wheel Mandrel and some fine grit sandpaper to polish the wheels. If allowed by your local rules (and the configuration of your wheels), use the Pro-Hub Tool to cone the inside wheel hubs.


Key 4 - LUBRICATION
Quality lubricant; applied properly

Lubrication is an extremely important key. The difference in time between a well-lubricated car and a car without lubrication can be one-half second or more (this translates into several feet on the track).

Most people use graphite for lubrication. Graphite is carbon that has been ground up into a fine powder. There are many varieties and qualities of graphite available at hobby and hardware stores, so make sure to get a good brand. We offer Tube-O-Lube brand, which has been proven to produce top results in pinewood derby racing.

When lubricating with graphite, take the time to work it in thoroughly; a casual puff before the race is not sufficient. After lubricating, make a few test runs to break in the lubricant (or free spin the wheels several times). Since graphite works best after a break-in period, don't re-lubricate between race heats.

If you use a liquid lube (such as NyOil II), make sure to follow the recommended application procedure. With liquid lubes, less is best.


Key 5 - ALIGNMENT
Car goes straight

In order for the car to get to the finish line as quickly as possible, it needs to go straight. If it zigzags down the track, it will travel a longer distance, but worse it will continually lose speed as it bumps and rubs against the guide rail.

To minimize the amount of alignment adjustment needed, make sure that the axle slots/holes are perfectly parallel to each other and the axles are straight. Also, when using axle slots, make sure that the axles are inserted perfectly straight. The Pro-Axle Press and the Pro-Body Tool are great tools to help minimize the need to align the wheels. In addition, the Pro-Axle Guide will help you insert the wheels and axles properly.

There are a few different alignment procedures, and they vary depending on the use of axle slots or holes. The best procedure is to use shims made from wax paper to adjust the alignment. This procedure is documented in our booklet Speed to the Finish. But a simpler method is as follows:

1. Determine which of the front axles appears to be the most out of alignment (or with a raised wheel, adjust the wheel/axle that is on the ground).

2. Make a mark on that axle where it comes out of the car body.

3. Remove the axle from the car and remove the wheel.

4. Using a vise, pliers, etc. very slightly bend the front axle at the point marked in step 2 (the Pro-Axle Press works well as an axle holder).

5. Replace the wheel and re-insert the axle.

6. Roll the car on a smooth and level surface.

7. If it does not roll straight, slightly rotate the bent axle by grasping the axle head with a pair of pliers.

8. Repeat steps 6 and 7 until the car rolls straight.

CONCLUSION

There are many other things you can do to create a competitive pinewood derby car. If you want to read further, our booklet, Speed to the Finish thoroughly documents the techniques and tips needed to get top speed out of your car.

But whatever you do, just remember that to create a competitive pinewood derby car, don't lose your Five Keys!

From Pinewood Derby Times Volume 6, Issue 1

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(C)2013, Maximum Velocity, Inc. All rights reserved.

Maximum Velocity Pinewood Derby Car Plans and Supplies

PINEWOOD DERBY INVENTORY CLEARANCE SALE

Now that the 2012-13 Pinewood Derby season is coming to a close,
Maximum Velocity is offering you an opportunity to prepare for the
next racing season with great products at substantially reduced
prices. Special offers include:

- Pre-cut car kits, including the Assimilator and Propeller Car Kits
- Special Edition Funny Car Kit
- Paint Stand
- 3/16 Tungsten cubes
- Axles, blocks, and more.

These are just some of the items we have reduced for this event. To
browse all of our special offers, please visit:
Inventory Clearance

== A Gift For You ==
As a token of our thanks, we are giving away a set of our BSA Speed
Axles to the first 200 shippable orders. To get this gift, please add
the BSA Speed Axles to your shopping cart at:
Inventory Clearance
This offer is good through May 19, 2013.

== Shipping Offer ==
And don't forget, we offer no cost shipping for orders over $80.

Thank you for your time and past patronage. We hope you have a great summer.

Randy & Elisa Davis

PINEWOOD DERBY MEMORY
Second Chance

After flying all night March 23rd, I arrived at my home in Wisconsin at about 6 in the morning. After a short nap, I began setting up our test track. We were participating in the Cub Scout Pinewood Derby on Saturday and I only had two days to complete my work on these little 7 inch blocks of wood. Ryan (my 9 year old) had sanded his car to the shape he wanted, so now it was my turn. I promised to make it fast by helping him polish the axles and wheels. When Ryan got home from school, we began working on his car. The next day, I continued to work on Ryan's car, then Joyce's car, and then my car (for the parent's race) the rest of the day Friday so I could have Saturday morning to go with our family to a church breakfast. It was hosted by a farmer from our church (Cedrick) who has his own Sugar Bush. A Sugar Bush is an area where maple syrup is produced.

After pancakes and sausage, (this experience would probably spoil any diet you were on. Myself, I could not stop eating pancakes! Something about the environment and all the sweet maple syrup boiling right there in front of me!!) we headed over to the town hall where the Cub Scouts were setting up for the pinewood derby race. I weighed each of our cars on their scale to qualify for the race. Only two of the three were a fraction of an ounce over the maximum weight of five ounces. I planned on being over, you don't want to be underweight (at our race the judge does not have to tell you if you're underweight, only if you're overweight). I had purposely put extra lead weight underneath each car so I could easily drill out the extra lead. Then I offered to help with whatever needed to be done to get ready for the race. The leader's wife asked me "Do you want to man the concession stand?" and I said, "No, but I will" and was immediately put behind the concession stand selling cookies, hot dogs, drinks and stuff, and test runs. If you wanted to do a test run on the track, you had to buy a raffle ticket for fifty cents. I was able to get a test run in on all three cars before taking over the concession stand. We did a Wolff Family Team race and it turned out just like it did at home on our test track.

When the race started, three cars ran at a time, and at the end points were totaled for each car. I think that is a nice way to do it; it keeps all the boys involved and excited right up to the end. Ryan won the first half-dozen races and then took a second. He then won another half-dozen races and took another second. From that point on, we knew he was not going to be in first place and were hoping for just a second or third. As the race progressed it seemed that cars which we previously beat were now beating us. I took a look at Ryan's car and found that a piece of decoration (a special homemade decal), had unstuck itself from the side of the car and was rubbing up against the rear wheels. Ryan complained because when I removed the decal, it ripped paint off with it. I apologized and added "you already won the prize for "Fastest Looking Car". The boys voted on "Best Looking", "Most Awesome" and "Fastest Looking" and the Cub Scout Master broke-up the racing with announcements of the winners of those awards. But it was too late to fulfill the "Fastest Looking" title, we had already lost too many races. They announced the top three cars and my son Ryan was not in the top three.

Next was the parents’ race and I was first up against two other fathers. My car had button-like wheels (Outlaw Wheels), special axles and tungsten weights that I had purchased from Maximum Velocity. I was racing against a yellow car and a silver colored car. The silver car took off like a rocket leaving me a few feet behind. A few feet out of a 30 foot long track is a very significant win ... I think my mouth dropped open. Then he (the owner of the silver car) took his car off the track to return it to the race table, but when he set it down on the table, it took off again! He had incorporated a windup spring into the car to propel it down the track.

Now you’re probably thinking, "That's cheating". But, back about the time when we started planning this race, the Cub Scout Master had said "There will be two rules for the adult race 1) It must be five ounces or less, and 2) It must fit on the track. So we all had a laugh. Even funnier was the fact that the Cub Scout Master (Bill) broke rule number two. He built his car too tall, so we had to remove the electronic timer, which formed a bridge over the track and judge the winners the old fashion way using eye balls. So in the end, I took second place and Joyce took fifth.

After the race was over, I was helping clean up when I decided to ask Bill what place my son Ryan took in the overall finishing positions. He looked it up in his computer and found that he had overlooked Ryan's score. He said "Oh no, Ryan actually tied for third place. I should have had a run-off race". I asked him if he could send our name to the District Executive as "Tied for Third"? He agreed to do that, and that just made my day. You see, I know I could have done some other things to Ryan's car to make it faster, but I did not have the time. I could have tried some different things and run more tests. Now Ryan and I have a second chance.

Von Wolff
From Pinewood Derby Times Volume 5, Issue 15

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Maximum Velocity Pinewood Derby Car Plans and Supplies

PINEWOOD DERBY CAR SHOWCASE

Strawberry Shortcake - Randy West


The Strawberry Shortcake car was the idea of my little girl, who is four years old. The car had a head from one of her dolls that was hard to part with, but we finally came to an agreement. Her car was FAST. The girls could only race for fun, but my little girl's car won all three races.

The Bandit - Ross & Tyler Bragg


The Bandit, a Speeder design from Maximum Velocity, was the overall pack winner. It weight exactly five ounces, runs on three wheels, has 'perfect' balance, and is equipped with matching wheels, and polished speed axles.

Fire Truck - Jim Mason


My Tiger Cub wanted to make another fire truck for his pinewood derby car this year. After two previous years in the Sibling Division with a fire truck, we decided to 'make it a go' again. We had watched the TLC channel show, "Overhaulin'" together, so I suggested we design a fire truck and make it look like a hot rod. We went on the Internet and found a photo of a 1946 Ford Fire truck and we were off and running. The light on his truck does work when it rolls down the hill; and other than wood, there is little weight added. We cut the side pieces and saved the new top from the rear cut, and then we glued it all together and painted it. The car (truck) looks great, but I wish we would have taken more time filling in with wood filler. My son loved the design and even won a trophy at our pack race. He then took third in the Tiger Division at District, along with Best Design. He was thrilled!

From Pinewood Derby Times Volume 5, Issue 15

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(C)2013, Maximum Velocity, Inc. All rights reserved.

Maximum Velocity Pinewood Derby Car Plans and Supplies

Weighting Materials: So many choices

What do you use to add weight to your car? Certainly the answer to this question is not "none!" For without adding weight to the car, it will not weigh-in at the maximum allowable weight (typically 5 ounces), thus it will not reach peak performance. Generally 2.5 to 3.5 ounces of weighting material is required to bring the car to the maximum weight.

So what do you use for weighting material? I have seen people use a variety of materials such as lead, no-lead weight, pennies, nuts and bolts, fishing weights, etc. Virtually any material with a non-trivial density can be used. But there are advantages and disadvantages to the various materials.

In this article we will look at several factors that affect the choice of weighting material: density, malleability (ease of shaping), cost, safety, and availability. Density will be given in grams/cubic-centimeter. A lower density number indicates that the weight will take up more space on the car, while a higher density number indicates that the weight will use less space on the car. In addition, the density of each weighting material will be compared to the density of lead.

LEAD

Lead has been the traditional weighting material since the inception of the pinewood derby. At a density of 11.34, lead is quite dense when compared to other possible weighting materials. The relatively small amount of lead required for weighting provides the car builder greater flexibility in the car design.

An added benefit of lead is that it is very malleable. With most materials the car builder must create holes or cavities in the car body to fit the shape and size of the weighting material. However, with lead the builder can create any size hole/cavity and then shape the lead to fit the hole.
Another nice feature of lead is that it can be easily drilled. Thus, the weight of the car can be easily reduced at the weigh-in by drilling out of a portion of the lead.

But as you probably know, lead has a downside. If used improperly, lead is toxic, so care must be taken when using this material. At our house, we abide by the following rules:

- Wash your hands after handling lead (and keep your fingers away from your face).
- Keep lead away from food, water, and food preparation areas.
- Collect and properly dispose of any lead pieces.
- Do not sand, saw, or file lead. Lead particles will be created which cannot be easily collected.
- Do not melt lead. The fumes are toxic, and the lead can pop and/or splatter during the melting process causing eye and skin injuries.

In summary, lead is clearly a winner in density and malleability. But be aware of the risks and safety precautions before choosing to use lead as a weighting material.

Lead Density - 11.34
% Of Lead Density - 100%
Malleability - Very good
Cost - $0.75 to $1.15 per ounce
Safety - Caution advised
Availability - Some brick and Internet-based hobby stores including: Maximum Velocity

ZINC

Zinc (or 'No-lead') weighting material is available in a variety of shapes. The material has a density of about 6.30, which is 56% of the density of lead. Thus, almost twice as much no-lead material is required versus lead.

No-lead weight is quite hard, so it cannot be shaped. To use no-lead weight a hole/cavity must be created to fit the shape of the weight. Also, since no-lead weight is very hard, don't plan on using a drill to reduce the weight of the car at the weigh-in.

The weights sold at hobby shops under the brand name "PineCar" are zinc (BSA branded weights sold at scout shops are also zinc). Several of these products are intended for mounting underneath the car with screws. Be aware that if the weights are attached directly to the bottom of the car, the 3/8 inch clearance specification will likely not be met. To ensure adequate clearance, a pocket must be milled into the bottom of the car to accept the weight.

No-lead Weight Density - 6.30
% Of Lead - 56%
Malleability - Very poor
Cost - $1.16 to $1.75 per ounce
Safety - Okay
Availability - Brick and Internet-based hobby stores including: Maximum Velocity

PENNIES

Pennies are a common weighting material, as they are very cheap and readily available. Generally, a hole is drilled into the bottom or back of the car (13/16" diameter), and pennies are glued into the hole. How many pennies do you need? That depends on when they were minted. Prior to 1982, pennies were comprised of 95% copper and 5% zinc. After 1982, the composition changed to 97.5% zinc and 2.5% copper (during 1982 both types were minted). Since copper is more dense than zinc, the older pennies are heavier. Assuming that you use pennies minted after 1982, 11 pennies is close to 1 ounce.

Although pennies can be bent if needed, they are not easily shaped. Safety is not really an issue with pennies, but you should always wash your hands after handling money.

Penny Density - 7.17 (after 1982), 8.80 (before 1982)
% Of Lead Density - 63% (after 1982), 78% (before 1982)
Malleability - Poor
Cost - $0.11 per ounce
Safety - Okay
Availability - Your pocket or coin jar

STEEL

Nuts and bolts (and screws and washers for that matter) are also commonly used as weighting material. A typical use is to insert screws into the bottom of a car to fine-tune the weight. Assuming galvanized steel (most common), the density is about 7.70, so it is a bit more dense than pennies. Steel cannot be shaped, and safety is not an issue.

Steel Density - 7.70
% Of Lead Density - 68%
Malleability - Very poor
Cost - About $0.30 per ounce
Safety - Okay
Availability - Hardware Store

TUNGSTEN

Tungsten - Tungsten is a very dense metal. At a density of 170% of lead, tungsten is the densest material that is practical for use on pinewood derby cars. Tungsten is non-toxic so it is gaining increased usage in weighting applications where lead is not appropriate. For example lead has been banned in many streams, so tungsten is often substituted for lead weight on fishing flies. Tungsten is very hard, so it cannot be shaped or easily drilled.

Click on the link below for more information on tungsten, including a chart comparing the density of tungsten with zinc and lead:
http://www.maximum-velocity.com/tungstencylinders.htm

Tungsten Density - 19.3 (essentially the same as pure gold)
% Of Lead Density - 170%
Malleability - Very poor
Cost - $2.95 to $4.99 per ounce
Safety - Okay
Availability - Maximum Velocity

OTHER METALS

Other metals exist with greater densities; however, they are either very expensive or very rare. Both gold and platinum have a higher density than lead (170% and 189% respectively), but you would end up with a car that should be locked in a safe!

SUMMARY

What do you use for weighting material? As you can see, there are a variety of choices, so pick the material that best meets your needs.


Weight Comparison Chart

From Pinewood Derby Times Volume 5, Issue 15

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Maximum Velocity Pinewood Derby Car Plans and Supplies

PINEWOOD DERBY MEMORY
Modeling the Nissan Skyline

For the 2006 RA Derby Race at our church my 10 year old son, Jonathan, decided to make his car look like the Nissan Skyline in the movie "2 Fast 2 Furious". I told him that it would not be easy to make a car of that detail, but he was set on making that car. We received the kit in early November so we had plenty of time to work on the car. He drew the design he wanted on the block of wood, and I cut it out on the band saw (so he would have all his fingers for the sanding!). I also drilled a rough opening under the wing. He then went to work on the final shaping and sanding. His work progressed nicely, and he was becoming happy with his design. After he completed the sanding I poured lead into the routered bottom to weight the car. The car was now ready for paint. The base coat of paint was applied and let dry. He then started to work on the side graphic paint, hood stripes and wing paint. He took his time and worked very hard at making everything symmetrical on both sides. I was pleased that he was paying attention to details. It was then onto painting the windows and lights. All was looking good and he was on the way to being finished a week before the race. Then disaster struck. One week before the race he was applying the final clear gloss coat of paint. As the clear went on all the blue paint on the graphics and wing started to lift and develop an alligator texture. He was very disappointed. With six days until the race he had to re-sand and refinish the car, Since this was the second attempt at painting the car it went a lot faster. He had the car finished on Friday night before the Saturday race. Although the painting was rushed the outcome was almost as good as the first paint job. We went to the race Saturday. The car did not perform very well on the race track, but when he won 1st Place in his age class for design and craftsmanship he was very happy. Now it is on to the Association Race in two weeks; we'll see what happens there.

Jonathan and Joe Coyne
Byron GA.

P.S. The poor performance on the track is another story, all the usual work was done on the axles and wheels, and the weight was at the max but it still ran slow. I am convinced that big body cars just do not perform like small sleek designs. I helped my son's friend with polishing his axles and wheels identical to my son's wheels. His friend's car was a very thin sleek design that was only 3/4 inch high near the rear of the car. His car won every heat, and he took home the 1st Place Race trophy.

From Pinewood Derby Times Volume 5, Issue 14

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Maximum Velocity Pinewood Derby Car Plans and Supplies