Thursday, July 24, 2014

PINEWOOD DERBY MEMORY
Proud Grandpa


My grandson, Leo received his first pinewood derby kit in December 2007. His first reaction was, "Grandpapa, let's build it now!" I told him that we needed to do some research and planning before we could build.

His pinewood derby was scheduled for January 12th, 2008. So we had time to do the research and planning. As part of the research, I talked to several cub scout leaders whose sons had won first place. They all provided me with great advice, and even showed me one of their son's cars. They also suggested that I go to your web site and read your newsletters.

So we started building the kit. My grandson did the cutting, sanding and painting. I only drew the template on the block of wood and provided guidance throughout. He helped with polishing the axles and the wheels, and I did the drilling for the weight and axles.

Race time came, and my grandson was pretty excited. When we got to the event, he said to the Cubmaster, "I'm going to win!" He was the only Tiger in the Pack, so he had to race with the Bears and Wolves. They had to race three heats. He won all three heats, taking first place by a foot margin.

Next he had to race in the grand finals. There again, he had to race three heats. The race was very tight, and he ended up in third place overall . He was very excited at taking third, and I was a very proud Grandpa.

Donald J. Judeikis

From Pinewood Derby Times Volume 8, Issue 1

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Wednesday, July 16, 2014

PINEWOOD DERBY CAR SHOWCASE

Camping Tent - Jack Long

Camping Tent was a car I made just for fun for the 2006 pinewood derby. The tent is canvas, the poles are toothpicks, the feet are from a doll, and the fire has a red light bulb that lights up.

Old #25 - Robert Mareches

I wanted to share my car with all the fine young racers. This car is probably 40 years old. My Dad and I made this car together when I was seven or eight years old. We didn't know anything about weights or polished axles. With lots of guidance from Dad, I learned how to use a wood rasp, file, and sandpaper. The big decision was what color to paint it! He did find out that sanding the wheel diameter made it run smoother. I thought that this would be the clincher for me to win the race. Well, our car lost, but I still have fond memories of building a derby car with my Dad. The memory means more to me than winning a race; my trophy is this car. Good luck to all you fine young men in building your trophy racer.

Ghost Rider - David & Davey Sides

My 9 year old son, Davey, is very proud of the car we built. He is very enthusiastic about anything regarding Marvel Superheros and loves this particular character. Next year, he wants to made a "Wolverine" car.

From Pinewood Derby Times Volume 8, Issue 1

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Thursday, July 10, 2014

FEATURE ARTICLE
A Winning Philosophy


I originally published this article in Volume 2, Issue 5 - November 27, 2002. During the past five years, I have continued to be disappointed by the number of parents that take a "Win at all cost" viewpoint. I hope that this article will cause many to rethink their philosophy as it relates to pinewood derby racing.

INTRODUCTION
Not long ago I had a discussion with a dad about an upcoming pinewood derby race. He asked if I sold completed cars. I responded that I didn't offer finished cars. I then went on to ask the following question: "Since the pinewood derby is intended to be a child/parent project, wouldn't buying a completed car go against the basic spirit of the event?" The dad responded something like, "Me and my son have a 'win at all cost' philosophy. So we do whatever is necessary to win." I was a bit disturbed by the comment, and tried to explain to the dad why I held a different philosophy. But I soon realized that there was little room for discussion.

What is my philosophy? Why did I react to the dad's comment? I hope to make this clear in the article today, and in so doing I hope that I leave you with some food for thought. Your philosophy certainly does not need to match my philosophy; however, we all need to make sure that we understand our basic belief in the area of competition and ensure that it is the philosophy that we want to impart to our children.

DO YOUR BEST
When considering life's events, I believe that a person should strive to do their very best. In sports, this means giving a 100 percent physical effort. In educational pursuits this means studying to achieve mastery of a subject. In fact, I believe if a job is worth doing, it is worth doing well. From simple chores to running a business, I strive to do my best.

A "Do Your Best" philosophy has at its core the concept of integrity. Thus, the athlete gives one hundred percent and follows the rules of the sport; the student achieves mastery without cheating; the business-person offers a quality product for a fair price.

Furthermore, there is another aspect to a "Do Your Best" philosophy which is not so black and white. That is the idea of fair play or sportsmanship. One can abide by the rules and yet be ethically delinquent by demonstrating non-sportsmanlike conduct. The athlete may badger the competition with cruel words, use steroids or other questionable means to enhance performance. The student may use fragments of another person's work (easy to do today with the Internet), or study a copy of last year's test from an upperclassman. The business
may make questionable product claims or slam their competition. These activities and others go against the grain of a "Do Your Best" philosophy.

Although it is not specifically stated in all cases, the "Do Your Best" philosophy is clearly in harmony with the philosophy of the major organizations that sponsor pinewood derby races:

Awana Mission Statement - "… challenge and train the youth of the world through Bible-based, Christ-centered programs …" (paraphrased)

BSA mission statement - "… to prepare young people to make ethical and moral choices over their lifetimes by instilling in them the values of the Scout Oath and Law. " (In fact, the Cub Scout motto is "Do your best.")

Royal Ambassadors' Motto - "Ambassadors for Christ"

Royal Rangers Aim and Goals - "… to instruct, challenge and inspire our boys in the areas of Bible doctrine, Christian service, moral conduct, and basic beliefs of our church through interesting activities that boys
enjoy."

YMCA Mission Statement - "… to put Christian principles into practice through programs that build healthy spirit, mind, and body for all."

How does a "Do Your Best" philosophy apply to pinewood derby racing? I believe that in the pinewood derby the child-parent team should strive to do their best. This means that they should have fun building the fastest car possible within the guidelines of the local rules, and within the boundaries of good sportsmanship. To further clarify the "Do Your Best" philosophy, let's take a look at another philosophy.

WIN AT ALL COST
The person who follows a "Win At All Cost" philosophy will do whatever is necessary to win, even if it means stepping into questionable, even unethical behavior. No one doubts that the ethical boundary was crossed when figure skater Nancy Kerrigan was assaulted. So certainly if a pinewood derby participant "accidentally/on-purpose" damaged a competitor's car, the bounds of ethics would be crossed. A parent-judge that favored their child's car would also be viewed as crossing the ethical boundary.

But how about the case where a parent has a craftsman friend build the car while the child is home playing. How about purchasing a pre-built car on eBay? Where is the ethical line crossed?

GUIDELINES
Clearly the purpose of the pinewood derby is both a craft-learning experience and a competition for the child. As such, the parent/child team should strive to do their best in crafting the car, and in making it go fast. To balance all of these aspects of the project can be a bit of a challenge. To help you achieve a balance, I suggest the following guidelines:

1. The parent should make sure that the child is involved to the greatest extent possible in all aspects of the project, while taking into account the child's age and capabilities. Here are some ideas for making sure
that the child stays involved.

a. Help the child select a design that they can build, without the parent having to do the majority of the work.

b. Allow your child to do as much as they physically and safely can accomplish. This will tend to slow things down (an excellent exercise in patience for the parent!).

c. Show your child the proper use of tools.

d. Help your child work through the required steps (no shortcuts) and help them understand why the steps are important.

e. Add strength and/or finesse for those steps that the child cannot do (initial saw cuts, drilling straight, inserting axles, etc).

2. If you choose to use more sophisticated tools, supplies, techniques, keep your child engaged at each step. Help them to understand the purpose for each tool or technique, and let them use the tool whenever possible. If you have access to a machine such as a drill press or lathe, explain why the machine is being used, show your child how to use the machine, and let your child run the machine (assuming that they are at an age where they can do so safely).

3. Give your child the pinewood derby building experience. Buying an "almost guaranteed district championship car" is very easy these days, but it cheats both your child and yourself out of the whole experience.

CONCLUSION
What is your philosophy? Do you hold to a "Do Your Best" philosophy or a "Win At All Cost" philosophy; or maybe you haven't thought about it. If not, I encourage you to consider this question and then ensure that you are imparting to your child a philosophy that will serve them well as they grow and mature.

From Pinewood Derby Times Volume 8, Issue 1

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Thursday, July 03, 2014

Pinewood Derby Time
By Chris Joker

Pinewood derby cars are serious business. Last month it was pinewood
derby time for my son’s Cub Scout pack. I was so excited I couldn't
stand it. I remember my Dad helping me when I was a scout. Now I
could pass down the long standing losing tradition to my son. We didn't
really lose so much as we didn't win. I really don't know what that
means, but that’s what my Dad used to tell me and it really does sound
better. Things have changed in the thirty plus years since I was a scout.
Now we have packaged plans, pre-carved kits, specially designed
weights, aerodynamic paints, axle optimizers, special lubricants and, of
course, The INTERNET.

The pack provided the kits for the boys (a block of wood, four nails, four
axles, four official wheels and a copy of the rules) for free -- free. This is
great, I thought, we can spend quality time together and it won't cost me
anything. After we received our kit it was straight to the Internet. An
initial Google search for "pinewood derby" returned 589,000 listings.
Included were sites such as: maximum-velocity.com, lowerfriction.com
(maximum-velocity and lowerfriction -- yeah I was a little worried about
those too), derbydominator.com, pinewoodextreme.com, and
pinewoodpro.com. PinewoodPRO? Come on, are there really pinewood
derby PROs???? When I visited his site and saw what he was charging
for tips I came to the conclusion that he did fit the definition of a pro.
There is actually a page from Stanford University that explains "The
Physics of the Pinewood Derby". Oh, and one of my favorites,
pinewoodprofessor.com (I’m guessing he got his PhD from Stanford).
The professor says "Be Smart! Use Science and Physics to Make The
Fastest Pinewood Derby Car Possible!" The professor offers a "new
cutting edge DVD" (just $14.99 plus $5.01 S&H) to help you do that. Did
I say it wouldn't cost me anything? We don't need no stinking
DVD!

We had about a month and a half before race day to build our winning
car so I had to narrow the list. I typed in: "guaranteed winning pinewood
derby car" (sounded logical). This search returned 17,400 listings. Still
too many for our time frame, so I typed in: "pinewood derby cars that will
allow you to say in your face to the other dads". Jackpot! This search
returned only two listings. A quick check of these sites found we could
spend from $6.00 for plans to $109.90 for all-inclusive kits. We don't
need no stinking plans! We would just find a car design we liked and re-
create it. After two weeks of looking at car designs we finally choose
a smoking hot one. Now we just had to draw the design, transfer it to the
block, and cut it out -- simple. Problem: this design has fenders, Our
block does not. No problem: after we cut out our basic car shape we will
simply glue some extra wood on for fenders. We transferred the design.
Problem: in order for the fenders to match up, our design called for the
wheelbase to be different than the stock block. I checked the rules;
nothing in there said we could not change the wheelbase. Some of the
Internet sites said you couldn't. A quick call to the scout leader for
confirmation, and we moved the wheelbase. Then we cut it out. Now we
just had to cut the fenders and glue them on. Problem: the fenders
proved to be too high for the block we just cut. It was off to the hobby
shop to buy a new stock block (only $4.00, not bad). While we were at
the hobby shop we checked out other supplies. They had some
interesting weights. According to the rules the cars may weigh up to 7
ounces. Back in my day my Dad and I melted lead weight into our cars.
Yes, I said lead. Kind of explains a lot, doesn't it? I decided we would
use some of these hobby store weights instead. I mean it wouldn't do
anything to bring back my brain cells but it might benefit my son. We
went ahead and bought weights in anticipation ($8.00). Did I say it
wouldn't cost me anything? When we got back we added extra wood for
the height of the car and the fenders, transferred the design, and cut it
out again. Now, time for sanding. Problem: the rotary tool was dead.
Believe me when I tell you that "back in my day we didn't have any fancy
rotary tools; we just used a block and some sandpaper". Did not work.
Okay, we will buy a new one ($57.00). Did I say it wouldn't cost me
anything?

After sanding it was time for painting and attaching the axles and
wheels. It looked great. We put it down for a test "drive". Problem: only
three of the wheels were touching the ground. A quick Internet search
and I discovered (from the pinewood pro, no less): "Free speed tip:
Friction can actually be eliminated! (eliminate friction? No wonder this
guy is a pro) How? By removing the surface that is causing the friction.
In our speed section titled 'Triple Trouble' we tell you how to eliminate
friction by lifting one of the front wheels so it doesn't touch the track at
all. Your car is rolling on only three wheels, thereby eliminating friction
from one wheel!" Okay, I'm not going to sweat the three-wheel thing. Call
it a happy accident. Now we had to add weights to get us right at the
7-ounce limit. I do not have a scale to weigh 7 ounces. The post office
does. We took the car to the post office. Ten ounces. I'm glad we bought
those $8.00 weights. So we brought it back and drilled a bunch of wood
out of the bottom. We went back to the post office. I weighed it again.
Nine ounces. Let me just apologize now to the person behind me that
was trying to get me to hurry when I shouted, "Back off lady, I'm
weighing my car here!" Sorry. It was obvious to me that the post office
was not the best way to check the weight of the car. I bought a kitchen
scale ($14.00). Now we can drill and weigh until we get it right. We got it
right. 7 ounces. My $14.00 scale is not really as accurate as the post
office so I wasn't convinced. Back to the post office to weigh again (sorry
again lady). We were slightly over so we drilled out some more. One
more trip to the post office and we were good.

Just under $100.00 in supplies and tools and a month and a half in prep
time and we were finally ready. Tomorrow is race day.

We show up at the race site. Outside I see fathers and sons with power
tools making last minute adjustments to their cars. One guy’s car was
like 16 ounces. He should have gone to the post office. Our weight was
right on so we helped the guy with the heavy car. I held it while he
drilled. Just before the race he had it down to weight and even patched
and painted over the holes. It was race time!!!! Let me just say that the
"three-wheel eliminate friction" thing: not so much. Between races they
allowed you to re-lubricate. My son got so happy with the graphite that if
they re-weighed us we probably would have come in at 10 ounces again.
The guy we helped with his car, yeah, he came in first. We won the
"Dreaming Award". I'm not sure what that means, but I do know that I am
dreaming about next year. I'm also thinking about getting a sponsor, so
if you know anyone who works at Home Depot or DeWalt maybe you
can have them give me a call.

Columnist Chris Joker is a single father of two, and editor of Family
Pastime Magazine available online at:
http://www.familypastime.com/

Used by Permission

From Pinewood Derby Times Volume 7, Issue 15

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Thursday, June 26, 2014

PINEWOOD DERBY MEMORY
Come From Behind Car


My oldest son had the misfortune to be in a den with a scout that had two older brothers that had been through Scouts also. His dad had been helping with Pinewood Derby cars for 14 years. The best my son had done was third place in his den until his Webelos year. Here is what happened.

My son and I decided to build the Stealth car from Maximum Velocity. Jeff worked hours polishing his axles, sanding the car and checking the weight. We tried every trick we had heard of. We lifted one wheel. We rolled it across the kitchen floor over and over until it rolled straight. We even used wax paste to polish the wheels.

Then came race day. Our pack uses the double elimination method of racing on a three lane wooden track. They race in heats moving the cars to a different lane each heat. When Jeff's den finally came up to race, I was on pins and needles to see how his car would do. He was in the first heat with the reigning pack champion. Jeff's car won the first race, but then lost the next two races to lose his first heat. My heart sank when I saw his face fall, for I knew he was thinking it was going to be another losing year for him. We had to wait until the top racers went through to decide who was going to the final round.

The final round includes the two fastest cars, and the third slot is filled with the winner of the consolation rounds. Jeff's car was back up and I thought the best we could do now was third place again. Then something happened that I still cannot explain. Jeff's car began to win. Race after race and heat after heat, his car was beating the other cars in his rank.

Finally, he made it to the final round. Jeff, the pack champion, and one other car began to race. I couldn't believe it when Jeff won the first race. These were the same cars that had beaten him in the very first heat. They moved the cars to different lanes and raced again. This time Jeff's car came in second. It all came down to this last race. The crowd was chanting his name, "Jeffrey, Jeffrey" as the cars came down the track. The race was very close. If it wasn't for the timer at the end of the track it would have been very hard to tell who had won.

Jeffrey won! I couldn't believe it, and I could tell from his stunned expression that he couldn't believe it either. He had beaten the Pack Champion. Not only did he win First Place in the Webelos rank but he went on to win the race to become the new Pack Champion. I will never forget his stunned expression and that little come from behind car.

Jim Billings

From Pinewood Derby Times Volume 7, Issue 14

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Thursday, June 19, 2014

PINEWOOD DERBY CAR SHOWCASE

Herbie - Neal & Aaron Jackson

My son Aaron always liked the Disney movies that starred "Herbie the Love Bug". So, we decided to make his pinewood car into a "Herbie". We even duplicated the #53 and stripe decals to match the original. The car didn't win many races, but it sure looked good going down the track. Best of all, we had a great time making it together and he proudly displays it on a shelf in his room.

Blue Wedge - Brad Weber

My son Hunter wanted a blue car with a white star. The red exhaust pipes are tungsten fishing weights and the body was a simple wedge. Hunter won Pack and District in 2007. He also set the track speed record for Districts! Thanks for all the info and tools that you provide. They really work!

Sprint Car - Charles Baum

The idea for this car came from sprint cars that have high-mounted wings. The body is quite thin in order to eliminate drag. I build the cars as a hobby, as I am an adult and my son is now 23 years old. This car has been the fastest in several unofficial family/adult Cub Scout pack races that I've assisted with. I'm waiting for an adults-only race later this spring to really see how it does.

From Pinewood Derby Times Volume 7, Issue 14

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Thursday, June 12, 2014

Top Fuel Cars - Two-Wheeled Cars

(The fourth in a series of articles on cars that "stretch the rules")

Everybody (at least anybody that has done any pinewood derby car research) knows that raising a front wheel (on a rear-weighted car will improve performance. This has been proven in many experiments, including one that we published back in 2005 ("Three-Wheeled Cars - Are They Faster?" - Volume 4, Issue 14 - April 6, 2005).

But can this technique be taken to the next step; that is, can a car successfully run with two wheels off the ground, and does this improve performance? Certainly, this has been tried by quite a few people, many of which have sent me ideas for implementing such a car. So I decided to give this a shot, and try several two-wheeled car techniques.

FUNDAMENTALS
First let's consider two basic principles of three-wheeled cars:

1. On a three-wheeled car, a front wheel can be lifted with success because the car is rear-weighted. Thus, the car sits firmly on the remaining three wheels (from geometry, only three points are required to define a plane).

2. Three-wheeled cars are generally faster because one-fourth of the wheel inertia is eliminated (leading to faster starts). However, some of this wheel inertia savings is given back every time the raised wheel contacts the guide rail. Thus, a "rail-riding" technique is often employed to prevent the raised wheel from contacting the guide rail (the car is purposely aligned such that the front dominant wheel steers towards the guide rail).

Applying principle one to a two-wheeled car, generally diagonally opposite wheels are lifted (1). But for the car to successfully balance on the two remaining wheels, the weight must be balanced symmetrically around an imaginary line connecting the center point of the two dominant wheels. This is easiest to do by center-weighting (placing the weight symmetrically about the center point of the car, but rear-weighting can also be accomplished by very careful weight placement (see Figure 1). In addition, for the car to rest without rocking back and forth, wider wheels must be used (no disc-type outlaw wheels).


Figure 1 - Bottom View of Weight Arrangement on a Possible Two-Wheeled Car

Regarding principle two, to eliminate raised wheel contact, both dominate wheels must be steered towards the guide rail. This excess contact may eliminate any advantage from the raised wheels. Thus, we will also try two additional options: 1) removing the raised wheels entirely, and 2) Replacement of the raised wheels with bushings (see Figure 2).


Figure 2 - Two-Wheeled Wizard Car with Bushings Installed

EXPERIMENT SETUP
The experiment used the following equipment:

- Pinewood Wizard body
- Speed Wheels with coned hubs
- Speed Axles from Maximum Velocity
- Krytox lube
- Two bushings - These consist of bent 'Awana' axles (0.092 OD smooth axles) with filed down heads, and #4 Flanged Nylon Bushings (hardware store item). I lubricated the bushings with a drop of Krytox 100.

Car Body
The Pinewood Wizard body was initially set up to weigh 5.0 ounces with the wheels and axles, and the car was center-weighted.

Wheels/Axles
The axles were lightly polished and then lubed with Krytox 100. The wheels/axles were installed on the car (four wheels on the ground), and the axle heads were marked at the 12:00 o'clock position.

Track
A 32 foot aluminum Freedom Track was used with a Judge Timer. For each run the car was staged in the left lane.

EXPERIMENT PROCEDURE
The car was first run five times for lube break-in. Then five runs were made with each configuration. With each configuration change, the weight was adjusted as needed to maintain five ounces, and the alignment was adjusted to be optimized for each configuration.

The sequence was as follows:

1. Four wheels on car, all on ground: center-weighted. Alignment dead-on.

2. Four wheels on car, left-front wheel lifted: rear-weighted (center-weighting not possible). Alignment set to steer left. This is the baseline configuration, as it is the most commonly used.

3. Four wheels on car, left-front and right-rear lifted: center-weighted. Alignment set to steer front-end left, and rear-end right (avoid contact with both raised wheels).

4. Two wheels on car: center weighted. Alignment set to steer front-end left, and rear-end right (to keep the car on the track).

5. Two wheels on car with bushings: Alignment set to slightly drift left (I tried dead-on, but achieved better performance with a left drift).

EXPERIMENT RESULTS
Figure 3 shows the results of the test. The worst configuration was the four-wheeled car with two wheels lifted. I believe this was due to the alignment necessary to avoid raised wheel contact. The best performance was achieved with the two-wheeled car with bushing. I believe this was also due to alignment. Since minimal contact with the bushings was not overly detrimental, the near dead-on alignment produced good results.

The two-wheeled car with no bushings is a conundrum. If the alignment is set for minimal contact with the wheels, the performance rivals the bushing car. However, with this alignment, the car can easily slew sideways on the track. So, to avoid a derailment, both wheels must have a prominent toe-in. This of course degrades performance.(2)

Note that all but one configuration was center-weighted. Using rear-weighting would likely improve performance for all of these configurations.


Figure 3 - Experimental Results

CONCLUSIONS
If your race rules allow, running a two-wheeled car with bushings might prove to not only be a novelty, but also a possible winner. Also, for novelties sake, a two-wheeled car with no bushings would certainly be interesting.

If you do build a two-wheeled car, please let me know how it turns out.

(1) A design does exist for lifting both wheels on one side of the car by counterbalancing the lifted wheels with a weight outrigger. This will be a topic for a future article.

(2) Previous to this experiment, I built a two-wheeled car with no bushings using the template in Figure 1 (I hadn't thought of bushings at the time). I adjusted the alignment to prevent derailment, and tested it thoroughly on my aluminum track (which has a braking section which drops down). However, the actual competition track had a braking section which ramped up. When the car hit the braking section ramp, the angled body caused the car to immediately rotate clockwise. This resulted in the car hitting the end stop at an angle. The front of the car broke off, leaving me with just a few days to make another car. Figure 4 shows a photo of the car before it was sanded and painted - unfortunately I didn't take a photo after it was painted.


Figure 4 - Two-Wheeled Car

ADDENDUM
I wrote this article during the summer of 2007. In March 2008, I decided to go with a two-wheeled car for our outlaw race on April 18. Having learned my lesson, I avoided the angled body design and went with a capital “I” design (Figure 5). It seems to track well and is quite fast. Since the race will occur after the last newsletter for the season, I'll provide the results in a newsletter in the fall.


Figure 5 - Two-Wheeled Car with Bushings

From Pinewood Derby Times Volume 7, Issue 14

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